From inland Pilbara, we then headed back out to the coast - the 'Coral Coast'. So we missed the coastal strip between Port Hedland and Exmouth which includes Karratha and Dampier and we have been watching 'Red Dog' which is set in Dampier, that will have to be for next time. From Exmouth all the way down to just north of Carnarvon is the Ningaloo Reef. This is Australias largest fringing reef system and certainly the most accessible for anyone without a boat. So there is great snorkelling just off the beach or the rocky coastline, unlike Great Barrier Reef where you have to get charter boats etc. So we have been doing a fair bit of snorkelling and getting to see an amazing array of the most beautiful and colourful fish and lots of coral.
First stop was Coral Bay, which while a beautiful location, was a jam packed caravan park where we had 3 nights which was probably 2 nights too many for me. At least the kids enjoyed the very warm pool and the jumping pillow. Also it was very windy and the water was choppy so we elected not to do the 'Swim with the Manta Ray' tour because it probably would have been very unpleasant on the boat (although undeniably spectacular swimming with Manta Rays....next time!). It was the off-season for swimming with the whale sharks, that is up until June. The fish feeding was the highlight; feeding huge (50cm) fish, a whole heap of them swimming around and through your legs. I even got a bite on my knee because one of my various scrapes obviously looked like one of the pellets to them.
Next stop was far better: back up coast, via Exmouth, to Cape Range National Park. Ahhhh, now THIS is the place to be. However apparently that's what a lot of people think and don't ever think you can just turn up at this National Park and find a campspot. It all has to be booked online and there is unlikely to be anything available on the spot. We were lucky we caught wind of this before arriving and were able to book 3 nights (but needed to spend those 3 days at Coral Bay waiting our spot to become available) but lots of people just don't know and therefore can't stay.
Campspot number 20 at Kurrajong, Cape Range - beautiful! Just over the dune from the beach. The campsite was in fact like a little community complete with very friendly 'camp hosts' and drinks at 5.30 every evening up on the 'table on the hill' where we watched the sunset, chatted about our days activities or, as in the case of one evening, had poetry recital.
Kurrajong, like all the beaches in Cape Range, had the most beautiful turquoise water with darker patches under which was the reef. Waves broke further out at the outer part of the reef so that the water near the shore was generally very still and good for snorkelling. Each morning at around 7am, just after sunrise, I swam some 'laps' at Kurrajoing and enjoyed mucking around and chasing the fish. Here are some shots of Kurrajong.
During the days we took picnic lunches and headed to either Oyster Stacks, Turquoise Bay or Sandy Bay, which was the kids favourite, and swam or snorkelled. There was a great number of fish, of various types and of the most brilliant colour assortment. At Turquoise Bay Drift you just entered the water at one end of the beach and just let the water pull you down to the other looking at the various fish on the way.
As well as beaches and snorkels, we also got in a few walks in Cape Range. The following photos show: 1. looking back towards the coast (west) along the s-shaped dry riverbed at Mandu Gorge, 2. Looking back towards the coast (west) at Yardie Creek, which is permanently filled and 3. Charles Knife Canyon, which is on the east side of the park, back around via Exmouth and looking out towards the east coast this time (peninsula). We did this last one on our way out with the caravan - a long steep climb, but quite spectacular.
Some shots for the grandparents; sunset at Cape Range
and finally a poor little crab who had lost a pincher and some legs..
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