Dampier Peninsula - Cape Leveque

There is a knobby bit of land to the north of Broome which is quite distinct if you look at a map of Australia. It is called the Dampier Peninsula. It presented an opportunity for us to dust off our tents and sleeping mats, dump the van and head off in the car up the dirt track (about 200km) of the peninsula. So after bidding farewell to the van which we stored at 'Broomes Gateway', a fledgling campground on the outskirts of Broome for $7/night, we were off for 5 nights in the tents. Our first campsite at Gumbarnun was on the water but because it was on the east side of the peninsula, the water was not swimmable due to the possibility of both crocs and sharks. So while the sunrise was magnificent and we had a waterfront position and we made good use of the story telling corner, we did push on after one night in search of swimming opportunities.

The peninsular is largely aboriginal-owned land with several aboriginal communities, several sizeable privately owned properties and an endless supply of the most beautiful, deserted beaches that have snow-white sand and turquoise water. We visited the community of One Arm Point right at the top of the peninsula. What a progressive community and what a huge difference from the communities of Central Australia and the Alice Springs area that we had experienced. I am sure it is the coastal environment that contributes to making it seem so much lighter, so much more pleasant and so much less oppressive. There is a fee/permit to get into the community, and perhaps it is also this money coming in, which I guess in a way gives the place a sense of worth, that contributes to the coherence of the place. The location is also undeniably beautiful. The Trochus Hatchery was fascinating. Trochus is a shell which only the people of this area (Bardi Jaawi) are permitted to collect, there were also huge tanks of various fish including 'Nemo', the clown fish. The huge barramundies sucked the squid with the swiftest, fastest of movements.

We also visited Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm, a posh, non-aboriginal-owned pearl farm which sends its pearls all round the globe. Then we headed to our next camping spot which was by far our favourite. It was the 'beach shelters' at Kooljaman, another aboriginal enterprise, and also the actual area of Cape Leveque (although people seem to call the whole pensinsula 'Cape Leveque') on the west (top) side of the peninsula. It was possible to swim here although we not quite sure why the sharks couldn't find their way from the east to the west side... Our beach shelter was right on the beach;

As well as swimming, the beach was great for kite flying:

Sunrise at 'our' beach

This is the first, very tame, snorkelling expedition, and method of transport there and back:

Our second snorkelling expedition was a bit wilder, together with the G.... family of Austinmer (cheers Mark, Miriam, Sandon and Luca!) we ventured out along a rock outcrop that headed out to sea several hundred metres, saw some great fish, clams and coral, but had a bit of trouble returning due to the very fast moving tides and the razor sharp barnacles. We eventually stumbled up onto the sand with various bloodied body parts but glad to all still be alive. The next day required me to convalesce by laying flat on my back on the beach for the entire day in which time I read, but also counted the cuts, scratches, nicks and scrapes which amounted to 107 of which approximately half were on the soles of my feet.

There was another beach at Kooljaman but swimming was not advisable here. It was called 'Western Beach'.

We headed back down the peninsula to our final camping spot at Middle Lagoon with a detour to Lombadina, the most beautiful community I have seen which started out as a christian mission and has the most delightful bush-architecture church. Similarly Beagle Bay was an ex-mission, now a community, but its church was a lot more European. At Middle Lagoon, apart from laying on the beach, we found time to get a bit of maths mentals in. Note also that the hammock was always in high demand and each of the kids all managed to sleep an entire night in it.

Here's a picture of the kids as we bade each other farewell at Middle Lagoon, thanks guys, it was a fun few days with you!