Some more Big Rocks in the Kimberley

After leaving Wyndham/Kununara area, we were backtracking for a few hundred kms back along the Great Northern Highway which is the main road linking Darwin and Broome, back through Halls Creek, past the Tanami turn off and in the direction of Broome. (We have some important business to do in Broome which I'll elaborate on later). On this route there were a few more Big Rocks to visit. The first of these being the Bungle Bungles at Purnululu National Park. Until we got to the highway turnoff, we thought we would be able to take the van up to the National Park and camp inside it, however we soon learnt that double axles were not permitted up the 50km track to the park. Fortunately there is a campground at the head of this track, which, thanks to this rule, gets a lot of business. We had a pleasant rough camp down on the river and prepared ourselves for a big day tomorrow. We got a good early start and headed up to the park. It has a south end and a north end. It is the south end which has the unique dome shaped rock formations that the Bungles Bungles is famous for and that's where we headed first. A lot of walking, up to 'The Window', spectacular walking but temperatures increased and there were no swimming opportunities as we had been used to, and by lunchtime the kids were getting a bit tetchy.

After lunch we headed to the north side where we explored the unexpected delight of Echidna Chasm. An amazing feeling to be walking through the centre of a mountain, the walls embedded with smooth rounded stones that had tumbled down a river 360 million years ago...*#! The walk through the chasm was about a km long, and in parts very narrow. The coolness was much welcomed. The kids thought they were Indiana Jones! It was quite spectacular although these photos won't do it much justice.

We left the north area, and the park, as the sun was going down which gave us spectacular colours on the rocks, but also meant that we had to drive back in the dark and got in very late. Dinner was a quick and easy affair, we were all pretty exhausted and slept well.

Also along the route is Geike Gorge just outside of Fitzroy Crossing - a sealed road all the way, what a treat! Another late afternoon exploration of the gorge, much cooler then, and the light is so beautiful. After that, we headed back into Fitzroy Crossing in the dark but had a good feed at the very civilised tourist lodge before heading onto a quick one-nighter camp at the junction of our next turnoff.

One (at least I) need mental preparation for the rough roads out here, certainly had that for the Tanami. Not sure if I quite had it for the next days travels out to Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge. A thankful respite 80km later when we finally arrived at Tunnel Creek. I had heard about the experience and it was pretty much as I thought it would be, that is, pretty spectacular and a lot of fun. Its about a km long and is literally a creek running through a tunnel of rock caves and you have to wade through with your torches. It was also the hideout of Jandamara, the famous aboriginal activist who was eventually shot dead by the police here, after he had also shot some police earlier.

And at the end of the tunnel there was another swimming opportunity:

Back on the track another 35km (and each one was counted) up to Windjana Gorge where there is a campsite and we set up for the night before heading down to another dusk viewing and a 3.5km (7km return) walk along this spectacular gorge. There were at least 20 freshwater crocodiles to be seen suspended in the water, and the next morning, before we left, we came down again and saw them all sunning themselves on the banks.